What INCI name should I use for chamomile essential oil in a cosmetic product?

The correct INCI name for steam-distilled German chamomile essential oil is *Matricaria chamomilla flower oil*. For a CO₂ or solvent extract, the INCI is *Matricaria chamomilla flower extract*. For the floral water (hydrosol), it is *Matricaria chamomilla flower water*. The specific form must match your ingredient exactly, as these are distinct entries under the INCI naming system used for labelling compliance under EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009.

What documentation do I need from a chamomile supplier to complete a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)?

For a CPSR under EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 Annex I, your safety assessor will require at minimum: a batch-specific Certificate of Analysis (CoA) covering GC/MS compositional profile (for essential oil), peroxide value and free fatty acid content (for infused or fixed oils), heavy metals (ICP-MS), pesticide residue data, and microbiological results. For organic-labelled inputs, the supplier's EU-Organic certificate under Regulation 2018/848 and the issuing control body's details should also be provided. TANDOR supplies all of these per batch as standard.

Is EU-Organic certified chamomile available in cosmetic-relevant forms (oil, hydrosol, extract)?

Yes. EU-Organic certified chamomile is available as dried flower (for maceration/infusion), essential oil, and hydrosol, primarily from Romanian, Bulgarian, and Hungarian certified farms. The organic certification covers agricultural production and primary processing under Regulation 2018/848; formulators should verify that any downstream extraction or processing operation is also covered by the certifying control body's scope before making organic claims on finished products.

What is a realistic minimum order quantity (MOQ) for chamomile essential oil for cosmetic R&D versus production?

For R&D and small-batch development, chamomile essential oil is typically available from as low as 1 kg with full CoA documentation. Production-scale orders commonly start at 25 kg drums. Dried certified-organic chamomile flower for maceration is generally available from 25–50 kg. MOQs vary by origin, harvest season, and certification status; TANDOR can provide current availability and sample quantities on request.

Organic Chamomile for Cosmetic Formulators

What Cosmetic Formulators Actually Need from Chamomile

Chamomile is not a single ingredient. The form you specify determines the INCI name on your finished-product label, the actives you can claim, the oxidative stability of your formula, and the documentation your Responsible Person must hold under EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 (Annex I, CPSR). Sourcing decisions should start with form, not origin.

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Available Forms & Their INCI Designations

Chamomile Essential Oil (Steam-Distilled)

INCI: *Matricaria chamomilla flower oil*
The commercially dominant form for skincare actives. Rich in α-bisabolol, bisabolol oxides A & B, chamazulene (formed during distillation from matricine), and en-yne-dicycloethers.
Chamazulene content — responsible for the characteristic deep-blue colour and anti-inflammatory activity — typically ranges depending on origin, harvest maturity, and distillation parameters; always verify by GC/MS per batch.
Appropriate for rinse-off and leave-on products at low use levels. Confirm safety limits with your Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) under Annex I of Reg. 1223/2009.

German Chamomile CO₂ Extract (Supercritical)

INCI: *Matricaria chamomilla flower extract*
Produced via supercritical CO₂ extraction; retains a broader terpene and flavonoid profile than steam distillation. Higher bisabolol oxide concentration relative to chamazulene versus essential oil.
Preferred in serum and concentrate formulations where a cleaner solvent residue profile is required.

Chamomile Hydrosol (Floral Water)

INCI: *Matricaria chamomilla flower water*
Aqueous co-product of distillation. Contains water-soluble flavonoids (apigenin glycosides), trace volatile organics, and naturally low levels of essential oil in suspension.
Used as an active aqueous phase component. Microbiological quality and conductivity specs must be defined; request Certificate of Analysis (CoA) confirming total viable count, pH, and absence of *Pseudomonas aeruginosa* and *Staphylococcus aureus* per ISO 17516 limits for cosmetic water.

Dried Flower / Milled Herb for Oil Infusion

INCI of the infused oil: e.g. *Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Matricaria chamomilla flower extract* (dual INCI listing of carrier + botanical)
Cold or warm maceration transfers fat-soluble actives — primarily α-bisabolol and lipophilic flavonoids — into the carrier oil. The resulting peroxide value (PV) and free fatty acid (FFA) content of the infused oil are critical quality parameters.
For sunflower-based infusions, target PV ≤ 10 mEq O₂/kg at release (per Ph. Eur. general method 2.5.5 guidance for fixed oils); FFA ≤ 0.5% as oleic acid is a common cosmetic-grade benchmark. Request oxidative stability index (OSI/Rancimat) data if shelf-life exceeds 12 months.

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Key Quality Specifications for Cosmetics

| Parameter | Why It Matters for Formulators |

|---|---|

| GC/MS profile (essential oil) | Verifies chamazulene, α-bisabolol, bisabolol oxide A & B ratios; detects adulteration |

| Peroxide Value (PV) | Oxidised oil damages skin barrier; PV must be specified and batch-tested |

| Heavy metals | Mandatory safety assessment under Reg. 1223/2009; request ICP-MS data |

| Pesticide residues | Required for CPSR; EU-Organic certification reduces burden but does not eliminate testing |

| Microbiological | Essential for hydrosols and aqueous extracts; per ISO 17516 |

| Colour & Chamazulene % | Commercial quality indicator; defined in batch CoA |

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EU Certifications That Matter

EU-Organic (Regulation 2018/848) is the primary certification for cosmetic buyers seeking organic-labelled finished products or substantiated natural claims. Chamomile certified under this regulation must be grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, with farm and processing operations audited annually by a notified control body.

Buyers incorporating certified organic chamomile into finished products labelled under COSMOS-standard (COSMOS-Organic or COSMOS-Natural) or Natrue must verify that the chamomile ingredient itself holds a compatible upstream organic certification; EU-Organic Reg. 2018/848 is accepted as a basis by both schemes.
Ph. Eur. monograph compliance (Chamomillae romanae/matricariae flos) is relevant when the dried flower is used in a medico-cosmetic context or when a buyer requires pharmacopoeial-grade documentation.
REACH compliance for extracts used above threshold tonnages, and allergen declaration under Annex III of Reg. 1223/2009 (notably for certain fragrance components in the essential oil), must be addressed in your CPSR.

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Origin & Processing Realities

German chamomile of commercial cosmetic quality is produced primarily in Eastern Europe (Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary, Poland), Egypt, and Argentina. Each origin has implications:

Romanian and Bulgarian origin offers short EU intra-logistics, traceability to farm level, and EU-Organic certified supply available through established cooperatives. Harvest typically occurs May–July.
Egyptian origin provides high-volume, cost-competitive dried flower and essential oil but requires more rigorous pesticide residue testing; EU-Organic certified Egyptian material exists but requires verification of the certifying body's equivalence recognition under Reg. 2018/848.
Distillation method (direct steam vs. water-and-steam) influences chamazulene yield and final oil composition — always request the distillation method in the product specification sheet.

Realistic MOQs for cosmetic-grade ingredients: essential oil from 1 kg (samples) to 25 kg drums for production; dried certified-organic flower from 25–50 kg bags; hydrosol from 25 kg containers. Exact MOQs depend on origin, seasonality, and certification status — contact TANDOR for current availability.

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Why Source Chamomile Through TANDOR

TANDOR is a Romania-based EU sourcing intermediary specialising in botanical raw materials. For cosmetic formulators, this means:

Multi-origin access — Romanian, Bulgarian, and Egyptian chamomile assessed against a consistent quality framework, allowing formulators to dual-source and manage supply risk.
Certificate of Analysis per batch — GC/MS, PV, FFA, microbiological, heavy metals, and pesticide data supplied as standard, reducing your in-house analytical burden for CPSR preparation.
EU-Organic certified lines — traceable to certified farms with valid control-body documentation compatible with Reg. 2018/848.
EU regulatory fluency — TANDOR understands the documentation chain required under Reg. 1223/2009, meaning specifications are already framed in terms your Responsible Person and safety assessor can use directly.
Flexible pack sizes — from R&D quantities to production-scale orders, without forcing formulators into minimum volumes suited only to large manufacturers.

Organic Chamomile for Cosmetic & Skincare Formulators